The Tip Bows on the Lower Wings need to be more secure than the Upper Wings. The lower wing is more likely to hit something when moving the plane and it is often used as a handhold for pushing the plane around. Therefore, I've added some extra blocks at each attachment point.
I've put small blocks in the corners of the of the nose rib on the outboard light rib. This is the rib I notched for the bow to fit behind the leading edge.
I made the spars full thickness at the wing tip ends to have more area to glue to. It's still an end grain joint which is very weak. To help it I've fitted glue blocks in each corner. It took a little time to get them all to fit snugly but I think it was worth it.
The trailing edge of the solid compression rib is thin and somewhat of an end glue joint. I've added a 1" thick block about 2 1/2" long. The clamp is holding it snugly in the corner.
The trailing edge wire also attaches to this corner so the extra block will help hold it all together.
I decided to glue on the Leading Edge before adding the other laminations to the wing tip bow. I think I can get a better joint between the two this way. We'll see.
I clamped it in place then glued it at each rib from the center rib toward the root and then toward the tip. That way it was held in position while I applied the glue, clamped, etc.
I've tapered the outboard end before putting it on so the top tip lamination can overlap it.
The little block is just a spacer so I could clamp the L.E. in position, but not glued.
The second rib inboard is also just clamped, not glued, so I can more easily glue it to the tip laminations when I add them.
I had to add a nail to most of the ribs to keep the leading edge from sliding on the rib. It has to do with the slight angle the clamp is pulling, causing the wood to slide on the glue. I'll pull the nails before shaping the leading edge so I don't nick the plane.
The blocks at the wing walk are parallel to the L.E. so I didn't have a problem with them.
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