Some More Info On Spar Routing

I use this stuff on the window in my sandblast cabinet to reduce dust sticking to the window, due to static electricity.  It also helps on the window of the router.  I spray it on a soft cloth and rub it on.  The dust accumulates on the outside so it's easy to do.  No need on the inside.  All the chips blowing around keep it clean.  It's not magic but a couple applications make a big difference.

I also forgot to say I use 2 clamps across the side rail blocks to hold them snug to the spar.  You don't want them to move.  They don't need more pressure than what holds them on well.

Skil makes an optional attachment (RAS 130) to connect a vacuum for the chips and dust.  We ordered one on line but it came without the screws, which seem to be metric.  It attaches to the oval boss on the base and fits a 1 1/2" hose.  Until I find some screws I've made a dust cover which attaches to the base and to the 2 1/4" hose.

I realized there are two 1/4" holes through the base for attaching a guide mechanism.  I decided I could  use one of them to attach the dust cover with a piece of 1/4" rod.

I cut a piece of 20 gauge mild steel, scrap from making the OX-5 exhaust manifolds.  I punched a ring of 1/8" holes with the Whitney punch, split them into tabs with snips and bent them up.  They're to weld to the outlet tube.

The tube is a strip of 1 1/2" wide 20 gauge steel spot welded together.  It fits the vacuum hose nicely.

I positioned it in the the tabs so it was a little farther in than flush with the cover.

Ah the joys of a cheap spot welder from Harbor Freight.

The cover was bent to fit snugly to the base.

A 1/4" hole was punched to align with one of the holes and filed with the 1/4" chainsaw file to allow the steel rod to enter at an angel to the base.

With the cover clamped to the base, and a pin in the first hole to hold it's location, The second hole was center punched with a duplication punch in the rod passage.  This was the same basic process I used to locate where the first hole was to be punched.

A piece of 1/4" rod was cut a little longer than needed and locked in place with the retaining screw and washer in the base.

It works.  I did find I needed to duct tape some of the leaks around the edges to reduce the chips leaking out.  As a result I have very little chips and dust.  I still wear an N-95 dust mask to protect my lungs, but this really cuts down the mess.  When I find the screws I'll see if the factory part works better.

Today I finished the third front spar.  It's all working.