After winding about 30 ferrules the hole in the bar had become loose enough to be annoying. Rather than just make a new hole I needed a way to adjust the hole to keep it snug on the loops.
I couldn't figure out an easy adjustment since the wear or deformation is in the 2 highly stresses corners. Instead I decided to make the end split like a connecting rod with a cap and 2 socket head screws. This way as the hole wears I can grind down the face of the bar to restore the fit of the hole around the loops.
To start I center punched the holes for the screws.
I used the horizontal drill on the Shopsmith to since its easier to align the bar and the drill bit. With the table raised to center the drill on the width of the bar the miter was clamped in place to control the horizontal position. By drilling one hole and then flipping the bar to drill the second there is no need to change the set-up.
Drill a small depth, clear the chips, oil the drill and repeat to the required depth to allow the tap to go deep enough to have plenty of good threads.
Once the tap hole was drilled the clearance for the screw in the cap was drilled with the same setup.
Gee I actually used the tap handle for it's intended purpose, will wonders never cease. Use lots of oil, 1/4 turn and back off to clear the chips. Remove the tap regularly to keep it clean of chips. Taps are brittle and break easily.
The cap was sawed off and the cut ends ground square and flat with the belt sander.
With the cap screwed on I discovered the screw heads extended past the edges of the bar, so they had to be ground down.
The process for making the hole is the same as before. Drill the 1/8" hole, the 1/4" hole and file to shape.
With the hole done we're ready to get back to work making ferrules. Once it wears again I'll be able to see if the plan works.
Very impressive! Especially as that is a totally different way of making these ferrules than I have ever seen, and we have made a couple ferrules! Thanks Dennis. John Gaertner
ReplyDelete